To view all 98 pictures from Xian, see: http://picasaweb.google.com/kersti.miller/200905Xian?authkey=Gv1sRgCL2t0KX6jLLr0AE&feat=directlink
Our first day we partnered up with another backpacking couple and went to see the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor. These aren’t as well known as the Terracotta Warriors, but in many ways are more enjoyable. They have several excavated pits full of miniature terracotta works, including chariots, soldiers and livestock. The emperor’s tomb is surrounded by these pits full of what he expected to need in the afterlife, and he must have been a big eater because they had hundreds of sheep, goats, pigs, dogs, horses, chickens, etc. Inside the main building that is constructed over the pits, you walk on fibreglass directly over the pits!
The next day we went to the Shaanxi History Museum. We showed up at 2:00, only to see a line stretching around the block. We found out that they give out free tickets at 2pm each day... thus we waited and then toured with hundreds of others! The artwork was incredible, especially considering that much of it was from thousands of years ago. It really brought home how far advanced ancient Chinese civilisations were. My favourite piece was an upside down teapot which doesn't spill the water when put right side up (despite the hole in the bottom). We bought a cheap replica, so prepare yourselves to be wowed at our next party.
Our third day we took a group tour out to the area's most famous site--the Terracotta Warriors. They are housed in a huge covered hanger, and the warriors are extremely lifelike. Every face is unique, and there are infantry, archers, cavalry, etc. all ready to defend the emporer. He wanted to make sure he had a big army for the afterlife, but shortly after his burial the tomb was ransacked by a rival general and some of the warriors were party destroyed. The archeaologists have found that soon after they expose a new warrior to light, that the numerous paints that colour the soldiers wears away. So until they find a way to preserve the paint colour, they are resisting any further excavation. So only a small fraction of the total site has been unearthed.
It is very impressive in scale, but also disturbing that so much effort was originally put into it. We have heard bits and pieces from other sources about the treatment of the artisans who worked on it (many of them joined the emporer), but there was very little info at the museum. We did learn that 700,000 men worked on the tomb.
Surveying my clay army
The terracotta warriors up close (at the Shaanxi History Museum)
The two most ferocious terracotta warriors we came across...The next day I (Bill) went to hike Hua Shan, a famous Taoist mountain outside of the city, while Kersti had a nice relaxing day at our new hotel. My brother David had highly recommended the hike, and it was quite the harrowing experience with some amazing scenery. The mountains are narrow ridges, many of which have trails along the narrow ledges. There were a lot of people hiking it, but it was a big enough area that it was still easy to get away.
The Chinese hikers all hung ribbons and padlocks along the hike.
There was one especially hairy part, where you hook into a rope and basically climb along the cliff face. Taking pictures from such a spot was a challenge, but a couple below may give the idea. I’m not really scared of heights, but I was bleeping scared doing this part…
Taking a picture doing this part was a challenge.The last day we took a bike ride atop the city wall. It was our first time on a tandem bicycle. We think the next time will be easier since on this bicycle, the seats were much too short. Apparently they are not willing to provide bicycles sized for people of our stature. It made it a bit tiring, having our knees bent the entire time!
We also had a fabulous Chinese lunch in Xian, although the experience was a little unusual. We went to a place recommended by the Lonely Plant, and when we arrived the place was quite crowded. However, they immediately lead us upstairs into a private room. At first I was worried we would be handed a different (pricier) menu, but it appeared to be standard. The odd thing was, the private room also came with a very diligent waitress. She stood attentively while we ordered and ate, never leaving our side. She waited 1 nanosecond before refilling our cups of chamomile flower tea. Her presence made us feel uncomfortable at first. But once we started trying to talk to her with the help of our phrasebook, things improved slightly! The waitress was really friendly, and she even asked to read through our Mandarin phrasebook. I think she got a little confused though, because right as we were leaving, she asked “How may I help you?”, even though we were clearly on our way out. We couldn't for the life of us determine a possible reason why we would need her help. So, Bill just replied “Thank you” and she seemed to think that made sense.
Anyway, we ate delicious barbequed pork buns.... of the self assembly variety. So you grab the very tender pork, and layer it in one of those white buns with plum sauce, scallions and cilantro. Delicious. We also had fried taro rolls covered in sesame seeds and a fried scallion pancake. It was a ridiculous amount of food. Chinese pork buns rule!
Our friendly server and Pork Buns!!
Some Chinese drinkers invited us to join in their revelery. They were very generous and kept insisting on buying us beer. We played a dice game with them and Bill was once again complimented on being 'so handsome'. I can't take him anywhere in China without the girls wanting to express their adoration for him!
China. There are 2 of these plants next to each other -- this was the view from the Qin tomb.
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